Monday, November 14, 2011

How To Apply Eye Shadow

There are many different ways to apply eyeshadow. Today I will take you through what I consider to be a foolproof technique, which is great for both beginners and experts alike.

To do basic eyeshadow I would recommend you start with two pressed-powder eyeshadows (a light shade and a mid-toned shade in either a matte, satin or metallic texture) and two brushes: a fluffy blending brush and a flat eyeshadow brush. For basic eyeliner, I would suggest you use an eyeliner pencil in conjunction with a small angle brush.

1) Prepare the eyelid.

To ensure you get a true color payoff from your eyeshadow, even out the skin tone in the eye area by applying a layer of foundation and/or concealer first.

Makeup artist tip! If you are going to use a metallic-textured shadow, apply it directly on top of a satin-finish foundation or concealer for maximum shine. Alternatively, if you are going to use a matte eyeshadow and want to make blending easier, dust some matte loose powder over the foundation or concealer before you start.

2) Highlight the brow bone and inner corner of the eye with a fluffy blending brush.
Pick up a pale-colored eyeshadow on a fluffy blending brush and tap off any excess. Using back-and-forth strokes and circular movements, blend the shadow over the brow bone, inner corner of the eye, and eyelid (optional).

Avoid white when you highlight!Be careful if you choose to highlight the eye area with white. If it’s not applied properly and blended well, it can make the eyes look ‘drag queenish’. Light colors (such as nude, cream, beige or vanilla) work well as highlighters on fair complexions. Pastel yellow and peach are my picks for yellow-based/dark-olive skins, while ochre yellows and orangey browns work best on black skin. Making a feature of the brow bone is very 1980s, so to keep your makeup modern, subtlety is key in the brow bone department. I typically apply something very sheer to achieve that ‘just caught the light’ effect. Leaving the brow bone bare is also acceptable, but can sometimes leave the look unfinished.

If you pick up too much eyeshadow on a fluffy blending brush and don’t knock off the excess, you will get fallout on your face. After I dip the bristles in eyeshadow, I like to tap any excess off on the back of my hand before I apply it to the eye. Then, if I need more shadow, I simply revisit the back of my hand and collect it from there.

3) Apply color to the lid with a flat eyeshadow brush.
Pick up a mid-toned eyeshadow on the wide side of a flat eyeshadow brush and knock off any excess. To make the eyelid taut, stretch the skin by gently pulling the outer corner of the eye with your fingertips (on your non-writing hand) or tilt your head slightly backwards. Using a repetitive patting motion and following the natural contour of the eye, press the shadow over the eyelid from the lash line to the crease to create a solid block of color. Then, take a fluffy blending brush and blend the shadow back-and-forth and round-and-round over the lid, and through the socket line to soften the color and smooth the edges.

Makeup artist tip!When most people apply eyeshadow to the eyelid, they simply blend it back and forward and wonder why they can never achieve much more than a diluted wash of color. The secret to professional-looking eyeshadow is to press it on. Patting the eyeshadow onto the lid allows you to build up a layer of color, which you can then blend to achieve that soft-focus, smoky, ”I’ve just visited a makeup artist” effect. Like most things makeup related, a one-size-fits-all approach doesn’t work, so how much color you initially apply and how much you blend it is totally up to you. If you are trying this technique for the first time, be patient and don’t rush it! Remember, practicing and experimenting is all part of the fun. Flat eyeshadow brushes come in varying shapes and sizes; choose one that works with the size and shape of your eye.

The fallout frustration! The best way to prevent fallout is to make sure you don’t overload your brush. As I mentioned earlier, ensure you tap off any excess shadow on the back of your hand before you begin. Then, using your hand as a palette, work between it and your face to add more color to the eye. Some eyeshadows (particularly dark hues and certain textures) have a tendency to cause fallout regardless of the precautions you take. In this case, to prevent your eyeshadow from dropping particles on your cheeks and ruining your foundation, apply your eye makeup first, clean up your skin and then apply your base. If you are a foundation-first kinda girl and have a free hand available when you are applying your eyeshadow, hold a tissue beneath your eye. The tissue will protect your complexion by catching any stray specks as they fall. Another trick to try is tilting your head slightly backwards when you are looking into the mirror; this not only helps keep the eyeshadow on your lids, but it’s also a great way to see what you are doing.

4) Blend eyeliner pencil with a small angle brush.
For a smooth application, take a sharpened eye pencil and warm the point on the back of your hand. Tip your head back slightly as you look into the mirror, and using your free hand stretch the skin at the outer corner of the eye. This will pull the skin on the eyelid tight and make application easier. To make the eyelashes appear fuller, apply the pencil using a series of short, overlapping strokes along the top and bottom lash lines, as close to the roots of the lashes as possible. If desired, also apply it along the upper and lower inner rims. To accentuate the shape and lift the eye, apply your eyeliner thinnest at the inner corner, thickening it as you move outwards. To take the harshness off the line, blur it slightly by blending with a small angle brush. Use small strokes, and work from both the inside out and outside in. If you want your eyes to appear more elongated, line them all the way around, and then blend the pencil with a small angle brush so the inner and outer corners meet in a wing.


Fabulous Fashion Mom

No comments:

Post a Comment